b o r i v a l i

Who is all-powerful should fear everything
Pierre Corneille, Cinna, Act IV, Scene II, 1640

Standing on a thousand years of history, blood and religious conviction, Mandapeshwar, or Mount Poinsur, looks out on what is still considered to be the other end of Bombay: Borivali.

Carved out of solid rock, the caves at the base of this hillock date as far back as 750 AD. Built by Buddhists, worshipped by Hindus, fought over by the Portuguese and Marathas, they now stand unoccupied, still under dispute. All that remain are empty chambers, underground caverns filled with water, mutilated statues of Shiva and the remnants of a Christian cross carved on the wall outside. Legend has it that the Portuguese converted its sadhus and laid the first foundations of Christianity on the island of Salsette. The Church of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception still stands today among the ruins of the previous monastery. It's parish, the oldest in Bombay, dates back 400 years. Over time it gave rise to a now-sprawling IC colony with its old bungalows, football field, close-knit Catholic community and legendary bakeries like Brulynn's owned and run by Mervyn Cardozo.

Handing out packets of beef samosas that he makes once a year, Mervyn chats with residents as they stream in for the fast-disappearing delicacies that include walnut cake, chocolates and his legendary peanut macaroons. The day begins at half past four in the morning, and ends past midnight. He's been at it for the past 15 years, after he persuaded the principal of Dadar Catering College to give him admission at the age of 42. An ex-mechanical engineer, he went on to fabricate his own ovens and tools. He's started a carnival, a food festival, and a football cup that lasted 23 years after he put himself through referee school. In many ways he embodies what has made the Catholics successful here: hard work, a simple way of life and a very strong sense of community.

With its commanding view of Borivali and the already-established IC Church, Mandapeshwar, or Monpacer as the Portuguese called it, was the natural choice for the Franciscan missionaries to set up their orphanage. Almost a century later, it has now snowballed into one of the largest educational institutions in the city, with a full-fledged school, an undergraduate college and a post-graduate MBA course. Climb up its steps and you're at its church, on top of the hill. It's breathtakingly beautiful here, with its faultlessly manicured gardens, squirrels, bell tower and statues ~ all set against a view of Borivali spread out into the distance.

Depending on which way you look from, Borivali is at the end, or beginning, of the Western Railway train line that transport a million people from one end of this city to the other. Lit up on the indicator of every station on the line, the Borivali Local is so iconic of everyday life and struggle in the city that it even has a newspaper named after it. And even though most residents of the city don't venture as far out as this northern suburb, its local train, and name, remain an integral part of their everyday life.

Next >



© 2001–2008 p i n a k i