Days ago, we had driven out of Muscat down the Samail Gap, turning off the six-lane highway at Bid Bid, heading south through Samad, Mudhaibi and Sinaw. After that, it is 200km of desert expanse on either side. That ride will take you through the foothills of the Hajar range that slowly recede into the occasional mound. Towards the end it is just gravel, until pebbles give way to sand, stretching from horizon to horizon. It might get monotonous after a while, but the moment when that great expanse hits you is an incredible experience. It is in that unending unapologetic vastness that you will discover the Bedu and their ways, the pink lagoons and the secret settlements. In that blank space on the map you will discover things most people in Oman have never seen, experiences in the middle of nowhere.

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