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Champa the dog woke up as I got out to sunlight blazing off the snow in the morning – she had spent the night outside, wedged between the doorway and the snow. I had been sure she would freeze to death, but she was just a little stiff, and got rid of the frost that ran through her fur by rolling over the snow until she was happy enough to start running around.

Anju hadn’t fared as well. She woke up late, long after we had warmed up and started to freeze again. The night had been tough even for her, caring for her brother, cooking for us, looking after the little dog. We shuffled out of her way, stomping awkwardly across the wooden floor. Soldiers got our car started, and the road ahead turned up to Tawang, and then on to the highest peaks before the border.

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